108-Year-Old German Bodegón in Buenos Aires Thrives with Beer Boots and Traditional Dishes

Gambrinus, a German restaurant that has evolved into a traditional Buenos Aires 'bodegón,' is celebrating over a century of history, with 56 of those years personally overseen by Abel Barbieri. Barbieri, who arrived in Buenos Aires at 17 from Entre Ríos, started as a dishwasher before working his way up through various roles at Gambrinus.

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I came from Entre Ríos because there was nothing to do there. We didn't go hungry, but we lived day to day. When I came to Buenos Aires, I started washing dishes in bars downtown. At Gambrinus, I started working as a waiter, at the counter, and in the kitchen; I played in all three positions.

He recounts his journey from a small town in Entre Ríos, where his family shared a community with German Volga descendants, to Buenos Aires seeking better opportunities. Initially washing dishes in downtown bars, he eventually found a role at Gambrinus, working the counter, kitchen, and as a waiter. The restaurant, founded in 1918 by José Pavlak, initially bore a strong German culinary imprint and even briefly changed its name to Otto before reverting.

Barbieri joined Gambrinus around 1970 when the establishment had already been operating for decades and had several branches. He found the main location somewhat neglected, with the owner often arriving late. He and other colleagues from Entre Ríos became partners, each holding a 10% stake, while the original owner retained 40%.

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This one was quite neglected: we opened at 6 p.m., but the owner only arrived at 7 p.m. and didn't control anything.

As the restaurant's popularity declined, Barbieri and his remaining partners eventually bought out the owner in the mid-1970s. He then convinced his brothers and uncle to join him, assigning them roles in the kitchen, at the counter, and managing the cash register, while he continued as a waiter. This family-driven effort revitalized the establishment, allowing it to continue serving its traditional German fare, including goulash, sausages with sauerkraut, and its signature beer served in a 'bota' (boot), while also incorporating other dishes.

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We organized how to do things to make it work. After a while, my other two partners sold me their shares and left. So I traveled to Entre Ríos, spoke with my brothers, and convinced them to come work with me. My uncle also came, who was unemployed. I put my younger brother on the register, my uncle at the counter, my older brother in the kitchen, and myself as a waiter.