A Ceuta Diary: Journey to Africa's Edge

The journey to Ceuta began with the sight of Hercules's Columns at the port, a symbol of the ancient world's edge. For the author and daughter Grace, this monument alone justified the trip, as noted in their travel log. Sailing into the harbor aboard the Chiripa, skippered by friend Juan Nicolau, they left behind the Strait of Gibraltar, angry orcas, and favorable winds.

Their destination was the "hard rock" of the Spanish mainland's southern coast, visible on the horizon, and behind them, the military fort on Mount Hacho, their final stop. They had come to Africa seeking Manuel, the author's great-grandfather, who died in the stone fortress flying the Spanish flag since 1580. With help from Rocío and África of the City Council, they recovered his death certificate, dated May 8, 1905, which led them to a common grave in the Santa Catalina cemetery.

Ceuta, described by poet Luis López Anglada as "lying in the arms of the sea," is a seafaring town that once hosted explorers and merchants chasing red tuna. The author shares their travel diary to showcase the city's splendor and kindness, aiming to offer a different perspective from recent chaotic news.

Exploring Ceuta on foot, akin to wandering through a neighborhood, they encountered busts of geographer Pomponius Mela and philosopher Aristotle, who noted the region's seven hills and its position at the end of the known world. They passed through the Califal Gate, built by Emir Abderramán, and walked along the Royal Walls, which once defended against sea invasions. The landscape revealed the confluence of the Strait of Gibraltar and the Alboran Sea, a meeting point of the Mediterranean and the Atlantic.