A Culinary Pilgrimage: Three Friends Explore Gangjin Through Food and History

The simple philosophy that life is about enjoying good food led three friends, a writer, a chef, and a screenwriter, on a culinary adventure to Gangjin, South Korea. Their journey began with a shared sentiment: "What is life but eating delicious things?" This desire for flavorful experiences propelled them to explore the region's gastronomic offerings.

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Life is about eating delicious things.

Upon arriving in Gangjin, their first mission was to indulge in the local specialty, dwaeji bulgogi (grilled pork). Having endured the drive by resisting tempting snacks, they were ravenous. They headed to the Byeongyeong district, historically known for its pork dishes since the Joseon Dynasty. The local style involves serving the grilled pork as the centerpiece of a 'baekban' meal, accompanied by over ten side dishes. The writer noted the authentic, non-sweet, and spicy flavor of the pork, enhanced by the smoky aroma from the charcoal grill.

Beyond the culinary delights, the friends explored Gangjin's rich history. They walked through Byeongyeong village, tracing the footsteps of Hendrick Hamel, a Dutch castaway who lived there for seven years in the 17th century. They observed the distinctive "Hamel-style" stone wall construction, characterized by its staggered, comb-like pattern. Later, they visited Saeuije, a humble room where the exiled scholar Jeong Yak-yong (Dasan) stayed upon his arrival in Gangjin in 1801. The name Saeuije, meaning "a place to be proper in thought, appearance, speech, and conduct," was given by Dasan himself after being inspired by the innkeeper's words.

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What is life but eating delicious things? Let's go eat something delicious next week.

The exploration continued with a hike to Dasan Chodang, where Jeong Yak-yong spent ten years of his exile, writing over 500 books, including "Mokmin Simseo." The path, known as the "Path of Roots" due to exposed tree roots, led them through a serene forest. They also walked the scenic trail connecting Dasan Chodang to Baekryeonsa Temple, a path frequented by Dasan for discussions with his friend, the monk Hyejang. This tranquil route, shaded by camellia trees, offered a cool respite even in the summer heat.

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Then let's go to Gangjin.

The evenings were dedicated to enjoying local drinks and reminiscing about their younger days. They savored dishes like grilled cuttlefish from the nearby Marado sea and enjoyed the camaraderie. The writer reflected on the simple joy of being able to "play when you can play" as a form of skill in itself. The trip concluded with a hearty clam soup the next morning, a perfect remedy for any lingering effects of the previous night's revelry, before they headed to Gado Island.

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Let's eat first. Gangjin also follows the principle of eating before sightseeing.