All about the trench coat, fashion’s enduring classic

The trench coat remains one of fashion’s most durable classics, and this season designers are changing its shape, materials and color without abandoning its recognizable identity.

London’s Victoria and Albert Museum is opening a retrospective of the Burberry trench this September. Thomas Burberry invented the garment in 1879 to protect against harsh weather, and British military forces wore it during the First World War. Burberry and designers including Yves Saint Laurent helped move it into mainstream fashion in the 1960s.

Its double-breasted front, belt and lapels have continued to evolve. For fall-winter 2026, Maison Margiela reinterprets the original with an oversized cut and a low-slung belt, recalling the low-waisted silhouettes of the 1920s. Chloé takes the opposite approach with a fitted design, a leather-trimmed collar and a tightly adjusted belt.

The strongest changes also appear in the fabric and palette. Bottega Veneta replaces cotton panels with its signature intrecciato weave, Dior uses suede, Saint Laurent introduces bright colors, and Bronx and Banco opts for a crocodile-effect version. The trench is still recognizable, but its latest reinventions treat its familiar structure as an invitation to experiment.