Chef Mariano Ramón: 'We Opened with 18 Chairs and Were Full From the Start'

For 12 years, Gran Dabbang has been a fixture on the Buenos Aires dining scene, offering a unique take on Asian cuisine with a focus on local ingredients. Chef Mariano Ramón, who opened the restaurant with just 18 seats, has seen it consistently full since day one. He describes his approach as a "local gaze" on Asian cooking, transforming dishes into beloved classics over the years. Ramón, who trained under culinary figures like Francis Mallmann and Narda Lepes, found his personal culinary language during travels in Southeast Asia, particularly India.

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I like to think of Dabbang as an everyday restaurant that people can come to whenever they want and however they want.

Ramón, who considers himself a self-taught cook, initially pursued sports journalism before finding his calling in the kitchen. His early experiences included an internship at Mallmann's Patagonia Sur restaurant in 1999, which solidified his decision to pursue a career in gastronomy. He acknowledges Mallmann's influence, particularly in popularizing open-fire cooking and traditional ovens in restaurant settings, calling him a "global reference" and the "creator of modern cuisine."

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It was discovering a new world: that of professional kitchens.

He also credits his early kitchen experiences with chefs like Juliana López May and Paola Carosella for fostering a deep connection to the craft. "What hooked me was discovering a new world: that of professional kitchens," he says. Ramón emphasizes the importance of mindful cooking, where each dish is prepared with the knowledge that it will be received by a diner. This connection, he believes, distinguishes professional cooking from automatic execution. Gran Dabbang aims to be a "daily restaurant" that people can visit "whenever they want and however they want."

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He is a guy who did something and generated a movement worldwide.