Chinese watch brands finally gain serious industry recognition

The global watchmaking industry is witnessing a significant shift as Chinese brands move beyond their traditional reputation for low-cost manufacturing. Behrens made history as the first Chinese watchmaker to debut at the prestigious Watches & Wonders trade show in Geneva, showcasing its "Pupil" collection inspired by ancient Shu civilization artifacts.

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At first I was a little bit surprised, but then I remembered that [another Chinese brand] CIGA Design won a GPHG Prize in 2021.

Jean Philippe Tarot, founder of Montres de Luxe, described the moment as both surprising and inevitable. He noted that CIGA Design's 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève award marked the beginning of recognition for Chinese brands. Behrens' participation in Geneva, the "capital of the watch industry," is highly symbolic and represents a validation from both the industry and consumers.

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Which, in my opinion, marked the very beginning of the recognition of Chinese brands in the watch industry.

Tarot believes this development heralds a new era, stating, "From an industry perspective it also means that the watch industry is not anymore Swiss, Japanese or French but also Chinese." This statement contrasts sharply with the past, when "Made in China" evoked associations with inexpensive quartz watches and counterfeit goods. The market was once known for producing "perfect clones," a segment that still exists but is now part of a larger narrative.

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In 2026, the fact that a brand like Behrens is attending Watches & Wonders is obviously very symbolic. It’s the very first time a Chinese watchmaker participates in a high-end watch fair in Geneva, the capital of the watch industry.

A new generation of Chinese watch brands, including Atelier Wen, Behrens, CIGA Design, and Shanghai Watch, is emerging with a focus on design, craftsmanship, and innovation. Brands like Sea-Gull Watches are also gaining attention for their advanced capabilities. This transformation mirrors China's broader economic evolution across sectors like electric vehicles, AI, and robotics, where the country is increasingly moving from manufacturing to innovation.

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It is clearly a recognition from the industry and from the market, that is the customers. And given their good work lately, their creativity and their collaborations, they deserved it.