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🇸🇪 Sweden /Environment & Climate

Climate Change Devastates Champagne Harvest, Altering Wine's Identity

From Svenska Dagbladet · () Swedish

Translated from Swedish, summarized and contextualized by DistantNews.

At a glance

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  • Climate change is severely impacting the Champagne wine region in France, with rising temperatures leading to milder winters and earlier springs.
  • This shift has caused a significant loss of harvest, with grape growers losing an average of 40 percent of their yield due to heat damage and accelerated ripening.
  • Experts warn that the changing climate is altering the traditional taste profile of Champagne, potentially threatening its historical identity and long-term viability if cooler vintages do not return.

The iconic French region of Champagne is facing an unprecedented challenge as climate change dramatically alters its delicate ecosystem. Rising global temperatures have ushered in milder winters and earlier springs, disrupting the traditional viticultural cycle. This environmental shift has resulted in a substantial decline in grape harvests, with growers reporting an average loss of 40 percent of their yield.

It's starting to resemble more of a Mediterranean climate and that's causing problems for this type of wine.

— Fredrik SchelinDescribing the impact of rising temperatures on the Champagne region's climate.

Champagne expert Fredrik Schelin, who spends part of the year in the region, describes the situation as a complete upheaval for the industry. "It's starting to resemble more of a Mediterranean climate, and that's causing problems for this type of wine," he stated. The intense heat, with June temperatures soaring above 35 degrees Celsius, has led to sun damage on the grapes, impacting their quality and quantity.

Champagne as we know it is lively, fresh, acidic, crisp, and bubbly. Of certain vintages today with the constant heat, it becomes sun-ripened and fruitier, a different type of champagne than we are used to.

— Fredrik SchelinExplaining how the changing climate is altering the taste profile of Champagne.

Beyond the quantifiable loss in yield, the very essence of Champagne's taste is undergoing a transformation. Schelin explains that the traditional "lively, fresh, acidic, crisp, and bubbly" character is being replaced by a more "sun-ripened and fruity" profile in certain vintages. This deviation from high acidity, crucial for Champagne's distinctiveness, risks eroding the historical identity and "DNA" of the beverage.

Champagne's history and DNA are lost when you lose the acidity.

— Fredrik SchelinHighlighting the importance of acidity to Champagne's traditional character.

Looking ahead, Schelin expresses deep concern for the future of Champagne production. He notes the rapid pace of change, with harvests now occurring in August instead of October, a stark contrast to just 30 years ago. The warming climate also brings new threats, such as invasive insects and pests migrating from the south. The extreme summer heat poses a physical danger to vineyard workers, with Schelin recalling instances of people falling ill during harvests. If cooler vintages do not prevail, he predicts a fundamental change in Champagne's style within five years, potentially leading to the "discontinuation of the business" and the loss of a "world heritage."

It is a completely new reality, and it has happened quickly. In 30 years, it has turned around; we used to harvest in October, now we harvest in August.

— Fredrik SchelinIllustrating the dramatic shift in harvest timing due to climate change.
DistantNews Editorial

Originally published by Svenska Dagbladet in Swedish. Translated, summarized, and contextualized by our editorial team with added local perspective. Read our editorial standards.

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