Colonel Chef Zhang Zhenzhong: A Culinary Journey Through Taiwan's Military Villages

A new publication, "Flavorful Memories - Culinary Times in Taoyuan's Military Villages," aims to illuminate a unique facet of Taiwan's cultural heritage, focusing on the culinary traditions and lived experiences within its former military communities. Supported by the Foundation for Veterans' Families, the book follows a previous volume on Hsinchu's military villages, continuing the effort to preserve and share these distinct memories.

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My mother was the most skilled; I learned my Sichuan cuisine foundation and cooking techniques from her. Basically, I avoid the smell of cooking oil because my parents ran a restaurant, and I also avoided taking over the family business, but I unknowingly learned to cook and eat.

One compelling narrative within the collection features retired Colonel Chef Zhang Zhenzhong, whose private dining establishment, "Hidden Delicacies, Obvious Feasts," gained renown over a decade. Zhang, a former political warfare colonel, attributes his foundational Sichuan cuisine skills to his mother and credits his military career and diverse dining experiences for shaping his culinary techniques. He possesses a remarkable ability to replicate dishes after tasting them, a skill that inspired him to open his own private kitchen after retirement.

Zhang's military service provided extensive experience in large-scale catering. He managed food services for significant events, including presidential and administrative meetings, and oversaw dining operations for various military branches. This background, combined with his family's legacy in the restaurant business, his father having established "Xiangchuan Restaurant" and later "Sichuan Restaurant" in Zhongli, provided him with a deep understanding of traditional Sichuan flavors and cooking methods.

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Sichuan cuisine's soul is freshness and fragrance. It should reflect the balance and harmony between dishes, engaging the senses without fatigue or overwhelming the palate.

His private kitchen, "Hidden Delicacies, Obvious Feasts," became a sought-after destination, attracting over 300 generals and a discerning clientele. Known for its meticulous preparation, quality ingredients, and authentic flavors, the restaurant offered a taste of classic Chinese cuisine. Zhang's journey from military service to culinary entrepreneurship reflects a dedication to preserving and promoting traditional food culture, deeply influenced by his family's history and his own extensive experiences.

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My father's generosity and hospitality often led him to say: 'A restaurant owner is not afraid of people eating!' Many fellow villagers came to him for help in times of difficulty, but my mother said most never returned.