EU bans destruction of unsold clothing, but critics see loopholes
Translated from German, summarized and contextualized by DistantNews.
At a glance
- The EU has enacted a new regulation prohibiting large companies from destroying unsold clothing and footwear.
- This regulation aims to reduce the significant environmental impact of textile waste, which causes millions of tons of CO2 emissions annually.
- Environmental groups and industry associations criticize the law, arguing it has loopholes and doesn't address the core issue of ultra-fast fashion consumption.
Large companies in the European Union can no longer destroy unsold clothing and shoes, as a new EU regulation took effect on Sunday. The rules aim to curb the substantial environmental impact of textile waste, which the EU Commission states generates about 5.6 million tons of CO2 emissions each year.
Clothing is a valuable product, and its destruction should be avoided.
Exceptions to the ban include items that are dangerous, damaged, or contaminated, and cannot be reused or recycled. Goods offered as donations to social enterprises within the EU that are not accepted within a specified period also fall under these exceptions. Smaller businesses will face these new requirements at a later date.
According to EU Commission data, four to nine percent of unsold textiles in Europe are destroyed annually before ever being worn. Industry associations and environmental organizations, however, have raised concerns about the law's effectiveness. The GermanFashion association suggests the regulation will have little impact on many European apparel companies, as they typically do not destroy unsold goods. They argue the real challenge lies with cheap, ultra-fast fashion products ordered by consumers directly from non-European suppliers. Thomas Lange, the association's CEO, called for these companies to share the costs of textile collection, sorting, and recycling.
Without consistent controls, practical changes are unlikely.
Environmental groups like Greenpeace believe the new rules do not go far enough. Moritz Jรคger-Roschko of Greenpeace warned that companies could easily circumvent the law through misdeclaration of products. He stressed that without consistent controls, practical changes are unlikely. Jonas Stracke, an expert from the Gesamtverband der deutschen Textil- und Modeindustrie, called the law a "paper tiger," arguing that functional structures for collection, sorting, and recycling are needed for greater sustainability. He believes the law burdens domestic industries with bureaucracy without addressing fast fashion issues.
For more sustainability, functional structures for collection, sorting, and recycling are needed.
Originally published by Die Zeit in German. Translated, summarized, and contextualized by our editorial team with added local perspective. Read our editorial standards.