France eases strict cheese rules due to drought

France has temporarily relaxed its famously strict rules for producing several of its most renowned cheeses, including Comté, Beaufort, and Abondance. The move comes as a prolonged drought has devastated pastures in the French Alps and Jura mountains, forcing dairy farmers to alter their cows' diets.

The Protected Designation of Origin (AOP) status for these cheeses involves not only strict geographical production limits but also precise regulations on what the cows can eat. Traditionally, the diet must consist primarily of local grass and hay, with at least three-quarters sourced from the designated Alpine region. However, this summer's drought has caused this aromatic flora to wither, compelling farmers to supplement with imported feed.

“

The change in rules will also change the taste of the cheese, as AOP cheeses carry the imprint of the grass the livestock grazes on, and if it's not there.

The French National Institute of Origin and Quality (INAO) has granted temporary exceptions to these rules. Experts like gastronomist Émilie Monaco and cheesemonger Jennifer Greco warn that these changes will inevitably affect the cheese's distinct flavor. They explain that AOP cheeses are intrinsically linked to the taste of the local grasses the cows consume. When cows are fed hay or other feed, the milk's mineral content and flavor profile change, potentially leading to a more watery and less flavorful product.

This impact on cheese production is part of a broader agricultural crisis in France caused by record heat and drought. Other staple products are also suffering: potatoes are drying out in hardened soil, and fruits like apples have sustained significant damage due to the lack of water. The situation highlights the vulnerability of traditional French gastronomy to extreme weather events.

“

Hay is not as rich in minerals as fresh grass, and livestock drink more water during heatwaves, so the milk also becomes more watery and loses some flavor.