France Passes Bill to Regulate Fast Fashion, Targeting E-commerce Giants

France's parliament has passed a landmark bill aimed at curbing the environmental impact of "ultra-fast fashion," focusing on major e-commerce platforms, many of which are Asian. The legislation, two-and-a-half years in the making, seeks to regulate companies known for rapidly producing large volumes of low-quality clothing at extremely low prices. These practices contribute significantly to pollution, with the textile industry accounting for nearly 10 percent of global greenhouse gas emissions.

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Their names, which were still unknown three years ago... are now on everyone's lips in France: Temu, Shein and AliExpress.

The bill, approved by both the Senate and the National Assembly, introduces a per-item fee for mass-produced textiles that will escalate over time. It also includes a ban on advertising for ultra-fast fashion brands, extending to social media influencers. Lawmakers are targeting companies like Temu, Shein, and AliExpress, whose popularity in France has surged in recent years. Trade Minister Serge Papin indicated that the bill specifically targets the main players driving this trend.

However, the legislation has faced criticism for allegedly exempting European and French companies, such as Zara and Kiabi. Some leftist lawmakers abstained from the vote, arguing that brands like Zara and H&M are not exemplars of sustainable fashion. The coalition Stop Fast Fashion also decried the bill as a "greatly watered-down" version of the original proposal.

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We're coming down very hard on Shein, and that's the first step.

Anne-Cecile Violland, the center-right parliamentarian who proposed the bill, acknowledged the disappointment but stressed the need for legislation that could be passed quickly and become operational. She stated that targeting Shein is a "first step." The law defines ultra-fast fashion based on the volume of clothing produced and the repair cost relative to the purchase price. The per-item fee could reach up to 20 euros ($23) by 2030, with a cap of 50 percent of the product's pre-tax price. A portion of these penalties will fund collection and recycling infrastructure. Additionally, companies must display messages promoting sustainable consumption, including reusing and repairing garments. Enforcement of the advertising ban remains a point of uncertainty.

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have not become models of sustainable fashion