France Takes Aim at Ultra-Fast Fashion with New Levy

France is moving to make ultra-fast fashion more expensive, with a levy that could eventually add almost 20 euros to the price of a single garment. The measure is aimed at large Asian e-commerce platforms, including Shein, Temu and AliExpress.

The charge follows legislation approved by the French parliament in June to regulate companies that sell large volumes of low-quality clothing at very low prices. Officials will classify ultra-fast fashion using two criteria: the amount of clothing a company places on the market and the cost of repairing garments compared with their purchase price.

The initial charges in 2026 will range from 50 cents for qualifying underwear to two euros for a T-shirt, nine euros for jeans and 12 euros for a jacket. By 2030, the levy could rise to 19.50 euros per item, although it cannot exceed half the product’s pre-tax price. France is also developing an independent data-collection tool so authorities do not have to rely only on companies’ declarations.

Ecological Transition Minister Mathieu Lefevre said the measure addressed the documented environmental and economic damage associated with ultra-fast fashion. Shein, which was valued at $26.3 billion in its Hong Kong initial public offering, declined to comment. Temu and AliExpress did not immediately respond to requests for comment.

The policy has faced criticism over its scope. Lefevre’s office said in July that retailers such as H&M and Zara would not be covered, prompting claims that European and French businesses were being spared. China called the law discriminatory and contrary to trade principles, and warned in July that it could retaliate. France also said imports of small parcels from China into the European Union had fallen by roughly 30% to 40% since a separate three-euro EU levy took effect on July 1.

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The harmful effects of ultra-fast fashion on our environment and our economy are well known and documented.