From 'Burned Alcohol' to Poetic Spirit: The Revival of Korean Soju's Rich Heritage

The article delves into the rich history and nuanced appreciation of soju, moving beyond its modern perception as a mere drinking staple. It begins by quoting a 1382 poem by Yi Saek, which vividly describes the sensory experience of drinking a distilled liquor, likening its clarity to autumn dew and its warmth to a regal setting. This sets the stage for understanding soju not just as a beverage, but as a subject of poetic contemplation.

The narrative then traces the lineage of soju, distinguishing it from fermented beverages like those consumed by historical figures such as Zhang Fei or Lu Zhishen from "Romance of the Three Kingdoms" and "Water Margin." The article explains that soju, meaning "burned alcohol," arrived in Korea during the Goryeo Dynasty's period of Mongol rule. Its origins are traced to Arab alchemy, with Genghis Khan bringing distillation techniques from Persia. The Arabic word "arak," meaning "sweat," is identified as the root, evolving into "al-kuhl" and eventually "alcohol." This Persian "sweat" transformed into Korean soju in the East and gave rise to brandy and whiskey in the West.

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If there is only the clever spirit in the liquor / I do not need to lean on anything / It gathers round like autumn dew and drips down at night / Thinking of the old good liquor of Cheongju makes me laugh / As if it makes me show off like the stars in the sky / ... / As soon as I barely get past half a glass of liquor, warmth spreads to the bone marrow / I feel like I'm sitting on a leopard-skin cushion, leaning on a golden screen.

The piece introduces Jeong Hoe-cheol, a former lawyer and professor who founded the "Traditional Art" distillery in Hongcheon in 2012. He champions the idea that alcohol should be savored for its taste, not just for intoxication, and laments the decline of traditional Korean drinking culture in favor of convenience and quick intoxication, often involving mixed drinks. Jeong emphasizes the purity and gentle nature of traditional Korean liquors, which, unlike modern convenience alcohols, do not cause severe hangovers and maintain a certain integrity.

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Liquor is not drunk to get drunk, but because it is delicious. Our bodies still have a longing for our own liquor. Traditional liquor, resembling our mountains and rivers, is gentle yet firm. Even if you drink as much as you can, there is no hangover, it is clean, and it does not cross a certain line.

Despite the challenges, Jeong's "Dongmong" (Shared Dream), a 17% ABV clear liquor made from glutinous rice and fermented for 150 days in earthenware, has gained recognition, even being selected as a presidential dinner drink and used for inter-Korean toasts. His pursuit of recreating the Joseon Dynasty's "Jeokseon Soju" (Exiled Immortal Soju) led to "Mujak 53," a spirit with no additives beyond rice, yeast, and water. Initially a commercial disappointment, its three-year aging in earthenware revealed a profound transformation, a testament to the slow, natural processes of traditional fermentation and aging.

This dedication to traditional methods has not gone unnoticed. "Mujak 53" recently received the "Grand Gold" award at the "Concours Mondial de Bruxelles" (CMB), a prestigious international spirits competition. The article concludes by reflecting on the long journey of rediscovering and perfecting these traditional spirits, highlighting the importance of patience and the unique qualities that emerge from time-honored craftsmanship.

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It sold poorly after all the hard work. I was so disappointed that I left it in the earthenware jar and neglected it for three years. One day, when I opened the lid, the aroma wafted out, and I was surprised. It was a completely different liquor; I never knew earthenware aging could have such an effect. Unlike the West, we have a history of broken tradition in our liquor, don't we? We were missing the time of waiting behind human effort. Through the breath of the earthenware jar, which subtly moves through the gaps of sand and soil, the liquor aged and the aroma condensed in a divine time. After five years, a deep and rich aroma rises.