Hanoi curbs kerb culture as city clamps down on pavement vendors

Hanoi's vibrant pavements, long a symbol of the city's bustling street culture, are undergoing a significant transformation as authorities enforce a strict crackdown on their unauthorized use. For years, sidewalks in the Vietnamese capital have been a dynamic space, accommodating food stalls, parked scooters, and patrons of roadside cafes and bars. This spontaneous energy, while charming to tourists and essential for street vendors, has increasingly led to congestion, safety concerns, and sanitation issues.

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Without vendors, I don’t think Hanoi is Hanoi anymore.

The current campaign marks a departure from previous, often short-lived, efforts to clear the footpaths. Authorities have deployed nearly 2,000 surveillance cameras and are enforcing fines for unauthorized vending, parking, and traffic obstruction. Businesses obstructing sidewalks face penalties of up to six million Vietnamese dong, while individual vendors can be fined 250,000 dong. Since December, police have reportedly issued over 3,000 fines, signaling a sustained commitment to reclaiming the sidewalks for pedestrians.

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Of course, I support the efforts to make the pavements clearer.

However, the crackdown has deeply impacted the livelihoods of many vendors. Nguyen Thi Hoan, a flower seller who operated on the same pavement for a decade, has been relocated to a less busy area, resulting in a halving of her income. "Without vendors, I don’t think Hanoi is Hanoi anymore," she lamented, expressing uncertainty about how she will make ends meet. While some residents, like marketing professional Le Trung Chien, support the move towards clearer and tidier sidewalks, the displacement of vendors highlights the tension between modernization and the preservation of Hanoi's traditional street life. The city, which has seen a surge in tourism partly due to its unique kerb culture, now faces the challenge of balancing order with the economic and cultural fabric woven into its busy pavements.

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Low plastic stool, cheap but delicious noodles, cold Hanoi beer.