He lived in London, returned to Argentina with an English chef, and founded an iconic San Telmo bar

Alex Fullin defines himself with a simple yet profound statement: "A century ago in England, I would have wanted to be a butler." This sentiment, he explains, stems from a lifelong desire to 'serve.' After spending seven years working in countless bars across London, Fullin returned to Argentina in the late 1990s with a clear vision: to create a pub that never closes, welcomes everyone, and embodies a spirit of club-like camaraderie and quality gastronomy.

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A century ago in England, I would have wanted to be a butler.

His creation, the Gibraltar bar in San Telmo, is now approaching its 25th anniversary. Fullin's experience in London, from working behind the bar to managing shifts, deeply influenced his understanding of the pub's social function. He was fascinated by how pubs in England served as equalizers, where individuals from all walks of life, dockworkers, opera-goers, office workers, could gather at the bar, sharing a drink, a celebration, or simply a listening ear.

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I was happy making a pub.

Upon his return to Argentina, Fullin didn't come alone. He brought his wife, Natalie Martino, and crucially, English chef David Beever from his last London pub. Beever continues to lead Gibraltar's kitchen, working alongside head chef Claudio Ledesma. Fullin recalls the early days, driven by an obsession with detail, like spending three weeks perfecting anchovies or developing a green curry recipe when such ingredients were scarce.

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Here people don't come to disconnect, they come to connect.

Over the years, Gibraltar has cultivated a diverse clientele, attracting English football fans, tourists, regulars, and individuals seeking connection. Fullin emphasizes that people in Argentina don't come to disconnect but to connect, a philosophy that underpins the bar's enduring appeal. Beyond Gibraltar, Fullin has been involved in other culinary ventures, including The Shangai Dragon, Matilda Café, Bangalore, and The Waterloo bar.

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At the bar, nobody is better than anyone else.