Heat Threatens Alpine Climbing: Guides Advise Against Matterhorn Ascent

The iconic Matterhorn is becoming increasingly dangerous to climb, prompting Zermatt mountain guides to issue advisories against ascents. Unseasonably high temperatures have caused the mountain to lose its protective snow and ice cover, leading to a significant increase in rockfall. Edith Lehner, the warden of the Hörnlihütte at the Matterhorn's base, described the mountain as "completely bare" of snow and ice, making it unstable and perilous.

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The high temperatures have left the mountain completely bare.

Several climbing teams have recently been caught in rockfalls on the Matterhorn, with one guide requiring helicopter evacuation. In response to these hazardous conditions, guides are now refusing new clients and only accompanying private guests they know well. Lehner pointed to inexperienced climbers, often drawn by social media, as a particular concern, as their movements can dislodge rocks onto those below.

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The conditions are becoming more difficult, and in the Instagram age, more inexperienced people are coming to the mountain – that's not a good mix.

This phenomenon is not isolated to the Matterhorn. The dramatic melting of the northeast face of the 4293-meter Lenzspitze near Saas-Fee, a classic route for experienced mountaineers, has also caused alarm. Images published by "Walliser Bote" show the ice wall shrinking rapidly. Experts like Jonas Zurbriggen, the warden of a nearby hut, expressed shock at the extent of the melting. These changes suggest that traditional climbing seasons in the Alps may shift, with June and September potentially becoming the prime months for ascents, rather than the traditional summer period.

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I have never seen the wall like this before.