Historic Buenos Aires bar El Viejo Buzón reopens with its soul intact

In the northern part of Buenos Aires' Caballito neighborhood, where low-rise buildings, cobblestone streets, and leafy trees define a tranquil atmosphere, the bar El Viejo Buzón has reopened its doors. Located at a six-corner intersection, the establishment, marked by a vibrant red, antique mailbox, is a vintage reminder of the area's charm. After a year of renovations, the bar has been refreshed in appearance but remains true to its original spirit.

"Our mission is to defend a history, an identity that has to do with who we are," says Felipe “Toto” Evangelista, the current manager. He notes that the reopening was a quiet affair, but neighbors quickly filled the space, eager for its return. "We haven't even had an inauguration party yet. The idea was to start with a low profile, quietly, but it was immediately filled with neighbors who were waiting for us."

Evangelista highlights the deep connection residents have to the bar and its symbols. He recounts how, during the renovation, the mailbox was temporarily removed for restoration, causing immediate concern among neighbors. "When I was born, my father must have used that same mailbox to send letters with good news to the family in Italy," he shares, underscoring its significance. The bar's interior is adorned with pennants and football jerseys, paying homage to the Ferro Carril Oeste club, a beloved institution in Caballito. "Caballito without the stadium is not Caballito," Evangelista states, referring to the club's championship history and its role in the community.

The bar's history is intertwined with Evangelista's family. Originally a bakery, then a delicatessen, the space was transformed into El Viejo Buzón in 1987. Evangelista's father, a tinsmith, contributed to its creation, with the bar counter itself made from his workbench. While his siblings who initially managed the bar have passed away, Evangelista continues to uphold its legacy, ensuring it remains a vibrant hub for the neighborhood.