'Jerusalem of the Balkans': Exploring Thessaloniki's lost Jewish history - opinion

Thessaloniki, a vital port city on the Aegean Sea, holds a deep and complex Jewish history, once earning it the moniker "Jerusalem of the Balkans." The author, Barbara Sofer, visited the city with her husband, drawn by a desire to explore this heritage, which has largely faded from public consciousness.

Sofer recounts learning about the city's dual Jewish heritage: the ancient Romaniote community, traditionally dated to around 140 BCE, who spoke a Jewish form of Greek, and the Sephardic Jews who arrived in large numbers after their expulsion from Spain in 1492. These communities transformed Thessaloniki into a thriving center of commerce, scholarship, and culture. At their peak, Jews constituted half the city's population, and Ladino, the Judeo-Spanish language, was widely spoken. The port, expanded and managed by Jewish merchants and longshoremen, even observed Shabbat by closing on the holy day.

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La Madre de Israel.

The city's vibrant Jewish life was tragically disrupted in 1917 when a massive fire ravaged Thessaloniki, leaving over 70,000 people homeless, including approximately 52,000 Sephardi Jews. This catastrophe led to a significant exodus, with many Jews relocating to Paris, New York, and pre-state Israel, scattering the community that had once been the "Mother of Israel" (La Madre de Israel).

Sofer's exploration included visiting historical remnants and encountering lingering cultural influences, such as a hat shop where previous generations of proprietors spoke fluent Ladino due to their predominantly Jewish clientele. The author also touches upon the bravery of Thessaloniki's Jews, including those who were part of the Sonderkommando revolt at Auschwitz-Birkenau, demonstrating their resilience even in the face of unimaginable horror.

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He lives and reigns and conquers the world.