Karnali villagers wait for a border fair they cannot afford to miss

For years, Chhiring Lama of Mugu has relied on the annual 15-day trade fair in Hyajimar, along the Nepal-China border, to sell yarsagumba and other medicinal herbs. The earnings from this fair, which typically occurs in late July or early August, are essential for him to buy Chinese clothing, food, and other necessities to support his family throughout the year. However, with August nearing its end, the fair has yet to begin, leaving Lama and many other residents of Nepal's remote northern frontier in a precarious situation.

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It is difficult for us without the Chinese border fair.

Communities in Mugu and Dolpa districts, which are a grueling walk or a three-day journey from their respective district headquarters, depend heavily on these Chinese border fairs. They sell medicinal herbs and livestock products, and in return, buy cheaper essential goods. This reliance is particularly acute in areas with limited crop production due to harsh climates and lack of irrigation. For instance, residents of Dolpa's Shey Phoksundo Rural Municipality can only grow one crop of naked barley annually, which is insufficient to last more than three months.

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With no road access, goods have to be transported by mule. So we have to pay a huge premium for Nepali rice.

Without access to the border fairs, the cost of living skyrockets. Nepali rice, which is already expensive due to transport costs by mule, becomes nearly double the price in local villages. In contrast, Chinese rice is significantly cheaper and more accessible. While a temporary market was held in Humla earlier this year, the crucial fairs in Mugu and Dolpa remain in limbo. Chinese authorities hold the final decision on opening these markets, leaving Nepalese villagers facing uncertainty and higher costs as they await word on when they can resume their vital trade.

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The Chinese side makes the final decision on whether to hold the border fair.