Kerala's snake boat racers keep tradition afloat despite floods and financial challenges

Thousands will cheer from the shore and houseboats this weekend as around 20 long, slender wooden boats, each powered by about 100 rowers, slice through Kerala's backwaters. This is the centuries-old sport of "vallam kali," or snake boat racing, competing for the most prestigious trophy. The slender vessels, with raised sterns resembling cobra heads, race on a 1.4 km course at Punnamada Lake.

The Alappuzha district, once the rice bowl of Kerala, is low-lying and prone to monsoon flooding. While most villagers view the swollen Pamba River with trepidation, Vakkachan Theverkkat, a former senior oarsman and captain of the Kainakary-based United Boat Club (UBC), sees opportunity. "It runs in my family," said Theverkkat, whose club has competed for the Nehru Trophy since 1963, winning it 12 times. "Our club has won the Nehru Trophy the most times and also lost it the most times."

“

It runs in my family. Our club has won the Nehru Trophy the most times and also lost it the most times.

Deadly floods recently killed 28 people and displaced thousands across Kerala, with parts of Kainakary also affected. Roads became inaccessible, and buildings stood half-submerged. Yet, UBC's rowers, including those from distant states like Uttarakhand and Manipur, maintained their rigorous practice schedule, often twice daily. UBC is considered a decent chance for a 13th triumph, having been hired to row "Veeyapuram," the boat that won last season's Nehru Trophy and Champions Boat League.

"Vicious Veeru," as "Veeyapuram" is nicknamed, is community-owned, with hundreds of villagers raising around 9 million Indian rupees ($94,300) to launch it in 2019. Funding each season costs nearly 7 million rupees ($73,000), with owners earning back only a fraction from sponsors and prize money. Manikanthan Nair TM, a shareholder, stated that while the Kerala government promotes snake boat races for tourism, the boat-owning communities receive little support as they battle financial hardship and natural disasters to keep the sport alive. Kamarudeen KA, secretary of the Veeyapuram ownership group, affirmed their commitment to continuing.

“

VICIOUS VEERU