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Summarized and contextualized by DistantNews.
At a glance
- A 300-year-old Sardinian pasta tradition, known as 'su filindeu' or 'threads of God,' is being preserved by a few dedicated artisans.
- Paola Abraini is one of the last remaining makers of this exceptionally rare pasta, which involves a meticulous hand-stretching process to create 256 gossamer strands from a single dough ball.
- The tradition, passed down through generations of women in Nuoro, faces challenges in attracting younger practitioners due to its demanding nature, despite efforts to revive it.
In the rugged mountains of Northern Sardinia, a culinary tradition centuries old is fighting for survival. Su filindeu, meaning "threads of God," is considered the rarest pasta in Italy, with its intricate creation process known to only a handful of people.
Paola Abraini is one such guardian of this ancient craft. She describes the potential loss of this tradition as akin to losing a piece of Sardinian identity. The meticulous process involves stretching a single ball of dough by hand into 256 incredibly fine strands, arranged in a triangular pattern to symbolize the Holy Trinity. The pasta is then dried on a rack called a 'fundo.'
To lose this tradition would be like losing a piece of our identity.
This delicate art form has historically been passed down through matriarchs in the Nuoro region. Abraini herself learned the craft from her mother-in-law at age 16. Unlike most Italian pasta, su filindeu is not shaped with a rolling pin. Instead, each pass of the dough halves its width, doubling the strands. This requires immense skill and an understanding of variables like water hardness and weather conditions, making it difficult for younger generations to master.
Despite efforts by Abraini and others to teach the technique, many aspiring cooks have struggled to replicate the finesse required. Even large pasta companies have found the process too complex. The isolation of Sardinia, particularly the Nuoro area, has historically shaped its culture, and su filindeu is deeply intertwined with this unique environment, its hearty food, and strong beliefs.
When it is dried in the sun it becomes light and golden.
Originally published by Asharq Al-Awsat. Summarized and contextualized by our editorial team with added local perspective. Read our editorial standards.