Marko Aljinović, the last miller of Žrnovnica, preserves a 700-year-old tradition

In Žrnovnica, near Split, Marko Aljinović is the last miller in a long line, safeguarding a tradition that stretches back possibly 700 years. Antoničin mlin, named after his ancestor Antonica Aljinović, is not just a protected historical monument but a vibrant hub connecting past and present. Here, the sound of flowing water, the grinding of stone mill wheels, and the scent of freshly milled grain are daily realities, not mere tourist attractions.

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My father milled grain, my grandfather and grandmother too. As a child, I carried sacks for my grandmother while she milled. I practically was born with my profession. It is both a blessing and a burden. I have always been tied to this place.

Aljinović, the sixth generation of millers in his family, continues the work started by his ancestor in the 17th century. He describes his connection to the mill as both a blessing and a burden, having been tied to the place since childhood. The mill's history is deeply intertwined with the region; the very name of the place and river, Žrnovnica, derives from the word for millstone. While the first mill on the river was recorded in 1212, Aljinović believes his family's mill is significantly older.

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It is six hundred, maybe even seven hundred years old. It is certainly not younger. It is a very simple structure: stone, millstone, and water. There is no great technology, but it works today, in the same way it has worked for centuries.

Once, about ten mills operated along the Žrnovnica river. Today, only Antoničin mlin remains active. Aljinović emphasizes that they mill grain using the same manual methods and stones as generations before. His family's journey to sole ownership involved gradually buying out parts of the mill over two centuries, a significant effort spearheaded by his grandmother Ivanka about fifty years ago, who sold land to acquire a portion not previously owned by the family.

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I am the last miller in an unbroken line from six or seven hundred years ago. We mill in the same way, with the same stones, by hand, as has always been done.

The Aljinović family began serious production in the early 2010s. The mill also serves an educational purpose, teaching children the process from grain to bread. Notably, the mill has also been a filming location, including for the series "Game of Thrones."

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Antonica was the first known ancestor of my family to become a mill owner. He was a farmer, an ordinary worker. The owner left him part of the mill, I assume he was from the same family, but that is no longer known because we are talking about a period more than 200 years ago. He was a good worker and deserved the mill. Today I am in his place.