Matija Gubec as a brave sommelier whose life was risky and short
Translated from Croatian, summarized and contextualized by DistantNews.
At a glance
- The term 'sommelier' has evolved from a historical role serving royalty to a modern profession involving wine expertise.
- Historically, sommeliers faced risks like poisoning their rulers, making their roles dangerous and short-lived.
- Predecessors to the modern sommelier existed in Croatia, responsible for wine and water supplies at royal courts.
The role of a sommelier today encompasses a lifelong education in skills that connect interactive, enogastronomic positive emotions, culture, wine etiquette, science, and a passion for wine. The term, originating from an old French word, once referred to a servant in the French royal family responsible for luggage and the entourage that supplied food and drinks to the court.
A sommelier today is a lifelong educated person with skills that connect interactive, enogastronomic positive emotion, culture, wine etiquette, science, and passion for wine.
Historically, the sommelier's construction derived from the Latin word 'sagma,' meaning a load or pack saddle for carrying goods. This individual was tasked not only with transport but also with selecting wines, desserts, and decorating the table. Crucially, they tasted food and wine before their ruler. Because the purpose of tasting was to prevent the ruler's poisoning, this period in history saw the sommelier's life as most risky and shortest.
In the Croatian region, a precursor to the sommelier, fulfilling a much simpler function, was the 'studec,' 'pribina,' royal 'vinotoฤa' (wine pourer), or 'pincerna.' King Petar Kreลกimir IV, one of medieval Croatia's most powerful rulers, expanded the state's territory, earning him the title 'Kreลกimir the Great.' The 'pincerna' was responsible for maintaining wine stocks, proper storage, and serving, a significant role at the royal court, as noted by Dr. Stjepan Srkulj in 1910. This role is akin to a modern-day party planner with expertise in wines and spirits.
The old French word 'sommelier' meant wine waiter, referring to servants of the French royal family responsible for baggage and the team that supplied food and drinks to the court.
Names for these early sommelier roles included 'peharnik,' 'studec,' or 'pincerna' (Latin for cupbearer). The term 'studec' in Zagorje and older Croatian dialects most often denotes a water source, spring, or well with drinking water. In the context of viticulture and the wine pourer's work, 'studec' was important not only for serving wine but also for providing clean water for people, washing dishes, barrels, and cellars.
Given that the reason for tasting was to prevent the ruler's poisoning, this was a period in history when the sommelier's life was the riskiest and shortest.
Matija Gubec is widely known as the leader of the Peasants' Revolt. However, before leading the revolt in 1573, tradition holds that Gubec served as a servant at the estate of Franjo Tahy in Stubica, where he lived. His duties included being a cupbearer or wine pourer, responsible for serving wine and managing wine supplies. His position at the noble's court provided him insight into the extreme social inequalities between the lives of the nobility and the common people. On one hand, there was exceptional luxury and frequent excess at court, with lavish feasts and tastings, while the populace toiled in fields and vineyards from dawn till dusk, often lacking food. Tables at court were frequently adorned with gold and precious objects, and goblets were filled with the finest wines. It was likely uncomfortable for Matija to witness the nobility enjoying themselves and discussing topics that revealed a disconnect from the reality of a peasant's life, their hardships, and consequently, a lack of empathy. Given that wine was a vital part of agricultural activities in the 16th century, and Matija Gubec was also a winemaker among other roles, he witnessed the stark contrast of this other side.
In our region, the precursor to the sommelier in a much simpler function was the studec, pribina, royal vinotoฤa (officer of the wine pourer) or pincerna.
Originally published by Veฤernji List in Croatian. Translated, summarized, and contextualized by our editorial team with added local perspective. Read our editorial standards.