Meet Ljiljana, she is the only one in Zagreb still making licitars!

In Zagreb, Croatia, Ljiljana Milla stands as the sole artisan continuing the centuries-old tradition of crafting 'licitars,' the iconic decorated gingerbread hearts. These vibrant red, intricately designed sweets are more than just a confection; they are a cherished symbol of Zagreb and Croatian culture, often exchanged to signify love, peace, and respect.

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There is no person who has visited the metropolis and has not encountered this traditional cake made of sweet dough with a shiny red glaze.

Milla's family has been dedicated to this craft for 75 years, a tradition that began with her grandfather, Filip Trslić. After honing his skills with a renowned Zagreb licitar maker, he opened his own workshop. His daughter, Marica (Ljiljana's mother), worked alongside him, and the business was named after her. Now, Ljiljana carries the torch, with her youngest son poised to become the fourth generation to continue the family's legacy.

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The colors and the dough attracted me to this job. Since childhood, it was interesting for me to watch my mother knead the dough and prepare the colors. I would always be with her and help her.

The process of creating a licitar is labor-intensive and requires immense patience. Milla explains that the dough, made from flour, water, boiled sugar, and yeast, is hand-kneaded and rolled to a precise thickness. Molds are used to shape the dough into various motifs, such as horses, babies, or hearts – the most popular designs. The final, and most delicate, stage is the decoration, which involves a steady hand and meticulous attention to detail, using white, blue, green, pink, and yellow icing on the characteristic red base.

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A steady hand, great dedication, and a lot of love are needed for this part of the process. Then each piece is given its uniqueness.

While the licitars are made from entirely edible ingredients, Milla humorously advises against eating them today. "They become so hard over time that a visit to the dentist could be unavoidable," she says. Today, these handcrafted treats are primarily appreciated as decorative items, with their bright red color and charming designs making them sought-after souvenirs for visitors to Zagreb.

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I would not recommend eating a licitar. Over time, it becomes so hard that a visit to the dentist could be unavoidable.