Milan Designers Opt for Lighter Silhouettes, if Not Materials, for Next Summer

Milan's menswear designers presented a Spring-Summer 2027 collection that favored lighter silhouettes, even as they incorporated substantial materials like leather and knits, reflecting a desire for simplicity amidst global uncertainties. Co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons at Prada championed familiar clothing reimagined through proportion and fabrication, emphasizing clean lines and pared-down looks.

The collections grappled with the challenge of dressing for the heat, with designers exploring "sartorial ventilation." This included unbuttoned dress shirts, some rendered transparent, and a general move towards closer-to-the-body fits. While long trousers remained dominant, the overall trend leaned towards a more form-fitting aesthetic, with Dolce & Gabbana notably showcasing microshorts. Tailoring was central but featured lighter, more relaxed constructions designed for warmer temperatures without sacrificing formality.

US designer Thom Browne, returning to Milan under Zegna ownership, presented layered suiting incorporating summer-friendly seersucker and pleated skirts for men. The overarching message from Milan was that the suit endures but is adapting to changing conditions. This adaptation included experimenting with fabrics and construction to allow for greater airflow.

However, not all designers embraced restraint. Philipp Plein countered the minimalist trend with a crystal-encrusted denim ensemble, a piece requiring days of handwork. Dolce & Gabbana also leaned into embellishment, incorporating beaded accents reminiscent of coral. These designers offered a maximalist and glamorous alternative to the prevailing theme of reduction seen elsewhere on the Milan runways.