Paris Fashion Week Men's: Heat, controversy, and a new masculinity

Paris Fashion Week Men's concluded amidst a sweltering heatwave, with extreme temperatures dominating headlines alongside a controversial artificial wave created for the Louis Vuitton show. Pharrell Williams's oceanic-themed spectacle, featuring a sandy beach and a giant wave, drew criticism on social media for its perceived extravagance, especially during a period of intense heat in France.

LVMH, Louis Vuitton's parent company, stated that the water used in the installation was part of a closed-loop system, recirculated and returned to the city's sanitation network. However, the preparations for the show also disrupted the daily lives of students near the venue in southern Paris, which had previously been used by another LVMH-owned brand, Loewe.

Beyond the controversy, the collections themselves signaled a shift towards a "new masculinity." Designers like Dries Van Noten and Egonlab showcased sensual silhouettes in soft hues, incorporating sheer fabrics, lingerie references, and very short shorts. Patrick Clark, fashion editor for GQ France, described this as a "confirmation of the contamination between masculine and feminine wardrobes," with designers using silks, satins, and transparencies to create fluidity and sensuality.

Jonathan Anderson's collection for Dior exemplified this trend with fluid, lightweight suits. Traditionally, suits are designed to emphasize an idealized, strong male physique and reflect societal roles. By using light fabrics and elements like silk and chiffon, Anderson is seen as "breaking the codes of masculine and feminine," according to the article.

Another notable trend was the incorporation of unexpected elements, such as pajamas. Anderson's Dior collection featured elongated pajama-like garments, while Sarah Burton's debut menswear collection for Givenchy included a plaid two-piece suit inspired by sleepwear. These designs challenge traditional menswear by introducing comfort and a relaxed aesthetic, further blurring established boundaries.