Prague’s spires whisper Maharal’s hidden history

As the anniversary of the Maharal of Prague's passing approaches on August 31, Prague beckons Jewish travelers to explore a city where his legacy still resonates. Over four centuries after his death in 1609, the city's historical fabric seems to hold time in a flexible embrace, with history clinging to ancient stones and whispering between the vaulted ceilings of its synagogues.

Prague itself is described as a city of captivating beauty, awakening to mist rising from the Vltava River, the chime of bells, and the squeal of trams. More significantly for Jewish visitors, Czechia is recognized as one of Europe's most Israel-friendly countries. Prague, in particular, offers a sense of safety and ease, allowing travelers to openly display religious symbols like a kippah and tzitzit without the heightened caution often required elsewhere in Europe.

The deeper connection between Prague and its Jewish history is most profoundly felt in the Old Jewish Quarter, Josefov. Here, behind heavy doors, lies the Altneuschul, the "Old-New Synagogue." This active synagogue, built in 1270, is the oldest in Europe and has served its community for over 700 years. Legend suggests stones from Jerusalem's Temple were incorporated into its foundation, linking it to the Hebrew phrase "on condition" – a condition that these stones would return to Jerusalem with the Messiah.

However, the name "Alt-neu" simply means "old-new." Initially called "The New Synagogue," it acquired the "Old" prefix over time as other new synagogues were built. Inside, the synagogue retains a dignified dimness, with Gothic vaults, twelve windows, a marble Holy Ark, and the revered "Maharal's Chair." A 17th-century flag of the Jewish community, featuring a yellow Star of David on a red background, hangs above the bimah, a testament to centuries of continuous prayer and tradition.