Reporter’s Diary: Driving into a divided landscape

The journey to Kaptanganj in Nepal's Sunsari district was fraught with uncertainty from the outset. Arriving in Biratnagar on July 29 to cover escalating communal tensions, the assigned driver, a Hindu, refused to proceed to the violence-stricken village. He cited security concerns, as one person had already died from a police shooting and a curfew was in effect.

This initial hurdle was not an isolated incident. Nearly every other driver contacted expressed similar fears, unwilling to risk driving into an area gripped by conflict. It took two hours to secure another arrangement, this time with a driver from the Muslim community. This decision, ordinary in normal circumstances, carried significant weight given the religious nature of the dispute.

The reporter and their colleague grappled with the implications of accepting the Muslim driver's offer. They considered the potential risks to him and the ethical dilemma of excluding someone based on their religious identity. Ultimately, after informing him of the dangers, the decision was left to the driver. As a precaution, they obtained "PRESS" vests for visibility.

The drive itself revealed the extent of the disruption. The 15-kilometer route was littered with obstacles: felled trees, blocking poles, burned tires, and debris from vandalized shops. Army vehicles were seen clearing the road. The landscape was desolate, with few people visible and no pedestrians, a stark contrast to ordinary life.