Review: Mongoose, Dublin's Newest Gem, Earns Top Marks

Dublin's culinary scene welcomes a new contender with the opening of Mongoose, the latest venture from the acclaimed duo Keelan and Aaron Higgs. Situated in the vibrant Liberties area at 78 Thomas Street, the restaurant occupies the very space that once housed their highly-regarded Variety Jones, now relocated next door. This strategic move sees the Higgs brothers introducing a fresh concept, Mongoose, which operates exclusively on Sundays, Mondays, and Tuesdays – traditionally quieter days for dining out.

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The very last thing you’d expect a seasoned restaurateur to do – particularly when people are going out less – is identify the least popular days of the week and decide, hey, I’m going to open a restaurant that operates only on those days.

Mongoose presents a distinct offering from its predecessor, focusing on an a la carte menu rather than a set tasting menu. Diners can anticipate a selection of modern international dishes, with particular highlights including the charred green asparagus with lardo and hollandaise, grilled squid with romesco, and the standout parmesan agnolotti. The pasta, described as tasting "just made," with a silky smooth texture and a liquid parmesan filling, has already garnered significant praise, with the reviewer declaring them the "best agnolotti I’ve ever eaten."

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It’s from France – two large spears of new season asparagus, with melting slices of lardo draped over them. The hollandaise is perfect. You’ll want one each.

While the food receives high marks, the wine list presents a slight point of contention, with prices starting at €50, which some may find steep compared to the accessible food costs. However, the sommelier-led selection promises quality and unique choices, bypassing common selections for more distinctive options. Despite this, the overall experience at Mongoose, characterized by its innovative approach and exceptional execution of dishes, positions it as a must-visit new spot in Dublin, even operating on the less conventional days of the week.

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Focaccia is €2, so order it to mop up the sauces.