South Korea's dog meat tradition to end with 2027 ban

A centuries-old culinary tradition in South Korea, the consumption of dog meat, is set to become a relic of the past. The National Assembly passed legislation in January 2024 that will prohibit the farming, slaughter, and distribution of dogs for meat starting in February 2027. This move effectively ends a practice that has been debated for years and reflects a significant shift in societal attitudes towards animal welfare.

The history of dog meat consumption in Korea is deeply rooted, with documented evidence dating back to the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). Historical texts, such as Yi Gyu-bo's 'Seulgyeonseol,' mention the practice, and records from the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1897) indicate that dog meat was commonly referred to as 'Gajang' (집노루, meaning 'house deer') and was often consumed during the summer months, particularly on 'Boknal' (복날) – the three hottest days of summer.

Various culinary methods for preparing dog meat have been recorded throughout history. The 'Hyojong Sillok' (Annals of King Hyojong) mentions boiling or roasting dog meat, referred to as 'Gajang.' Historical cookbooks like Jang Gye-hyang's 'Eumsik Dimibang' detail recipes for dog meat sausage ('Gaejang'), skewers ('Gaejang-kkonureumi'), and steamed dishes ('Gaejang-jjim'). Other historical texts describe dog meat stew ('Gaejangguk'), which evolved into dishes known as 'Boshintang' or 'Sacheoltang' in the late 20th century. Preparations also included stuffing winter melon with dog meat and steaming it.

The upcoming ban signifies the end of this food culture, including the specific 'Bokdalim' (복달임) custom of eating dog meat to ward off the summer heat. While the debate over dog meat consumption has been contentious, the new legislation reflects a growing consensus against the practice. As the ban approaches, the diverse historical recipes and traditions associated with dog meat will transition into history, leaving behind a complex legacy.