Spanish chefs agree: Fried fish needs wheat flour, not breadcrumbs

The crisp coating on Andalusian fried fish does not come from the familiar egg-and-breadcrumb breading. According to Cádiz chef Ángel León, known online as “the chef of the sea,” the traditional technique depends on a very thin layer of flour.

León recommends mixing three flours in equal parts: finely milled wheat flour, chickpea flour and a special flour for frying. Wheat flour provides the base, while chickpea flour helps create a light, crisp texture. He says the most common mistake is using only one flour or applying a coating that is too heavy.

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the chef of the sea

Moisture can also ruin the result. León advises drying the fish carefully and avoiding fresh water immediately before cooking. “Don’t add fresh water, for God’s sake. It stops tasting of the sea,” he says. After coating the pieces, cooks should shake off excess flour so it does not form a thick layer.

The fish should fry in plenty of oil at roughly 180 to 190°C. It should go into the oil in small batches to prevent the temperature from dropping sharply. Once cooked, the pieces should rest on a rack rather than directly on absorbent paper, allowing the oil to drain without leaving the base in contact with grease. Salt goes on at the end, and the fish should be served immediately. For cooks avoiding gluten, the wheat flour can be replaced with cornstarch or rice flour alongside the chickpea flour.

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Don’t add fresh water, for God’s sake. It stops tasting of the sea.