The agent that infiltrated Pakistan’s red hot chilli peppers

The town of Kunri in Pakistan's Sindh province, once celebrated as Asia's red chilli capital, is facing an existential crisis. For decades, its unique Dundicut, or Longi, chilli variety brought prosperity, thanks to a specific climate that allowed it to grow nowhere else. This chilli, which detaches from the stem when ripe, was harvested from sun-baked fields, creating a distinct pepper-laden atmosphere.

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See, it’s the flavour, not too spicy, not at all bitter.

Growers like Abbas Datwesh praise the Dundicut for its flavor, describing it as "not too spicy, not at all bitter." This distinctive taste and aroma made it a staple in Pakistani kitchens and a significant export. The wholesale market in Kunri once traded over 100,000 tonnes of chillies annually. However, the economic landscape has shifted dramatically.

The decline in Dundicut's fortunes is attributed to two main factors: insufficient profit margins and the rise of lucrative hybrid seeds. While Dundicut yields a profit of Rs100,000 per acre, the hybrid Sanam seed generates eight times that amount. Many farmers continue to grow the indigenous variety for personal use but find it increasingly difficult to sustain financially.

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This is what the world wants.

Adding to the woes, a more sinister threat has emerged. Reports indicate that the chilli powder reaching Pakistani kitchens contains Aflatoxin B1, a toxic compound produced by mold. This discovery casts a shadow over the future of Kunri's famed chilli, threatening not only its economic viability but also the health of consumers.

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We haven’t abandoned our indigenous variety, our identity, Kunri’s identity. We are still very much waging this war with all the know-how and resources that we have.