Weekend wine tasting: Barbera is the people’s grape

Barbera is known in Piedmont as “the people’s grape,” and it accounts for more than half of the region’s total wine production. The variety is relatively easy to grow and performs well even in warm vintages.

Its signature is dark red fruit paired with fresh acidity that gives the wine lift and keeps it from feeling heavy. The tannins are barely noticeable, leaving a soft, polished finish, especially compared with Nebbiolo, another grape associated with Piedmont.

For the tasting, Alf Tumble suggests starting with Fontanafredda Raimonda Barbera d’Alba 2025, a lighter wine that can be served cool. Next come the richer, darker-fruited Barbera d’Alba Superiore wines from Bruna Grimaldi and G.D. Vajra.

The tasting ends with Scrimaglio Nizza 2023, which has a clear oak profile. Most Barbera wines see some oak aging, and the better examples can develop further in the bottle. Nizza produces the most concentrated versions and is the only appellation that requires wines to contain 100 percent Barbera. The grape is also grown in the United States, Australia and Argentina, but Piedmont remains the recommended starting point for getting to know it.