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Banned in the EU, but in Oslo, forgotten everyday food has become a delicacy
🇳🇴 Norway /Culture & Society

Banned in the EU, but in Oslo, forgotten everyday food has become a delicacy

From Aftenposten · () Norwegian

Translated from Norwegian, summarized and contextualized by DistantNews.

At a glance

In-depth Sources not specified Context piece
  • Whale meat, once a polarizing everyday food in Norway, is now a delicacy in Oslo restaurants.
  • While banned in the EU, Norway and Iceland remain exceptions for commercial whaling.
  • Chefs are experimenting with modern preparations to remove the "cod liver oil" taste and highlight the meat's natural sweetness.

Whale meat, a food that once sharply divided Norwegian society, is experiencing a resurgence as a delicacy in Oslo's culinary scene. Once a common and affordable source of protein, whale meat faced intense debate in the 1990s, pitting whalers against animal rights organizations. A viral clip from a 1996 TV debate, where taxi driver and debater Hans Bauge emphatically declared "Whale meat is food!", has garnered over a million views, symbolizing the past conflict.

Whale meat is food!

— Hans BaugeA taxi driver and TV debater in 1996, in a viral clip symbolizing the past controversy over whaling.

Despite commercial trade in whale products being banned in the European Union due to decades of overhunting and declining whale populations, Norway and Iceland continue to permit it. In Oslo, restaurants like Rorbua and Lofotstua, known for their traditional Northern Norwegian profiles, are attracting tourists eager to try the controversial ingredient. Innovative chefs in the capital are also experimenting with modern preparations.

We ate it with cream sauce when I was little.

— Tord JohnsæterRecalling childhood memories of eating whale meat.

Tord Johnsæter, head chef at Stock in Bjørvika, is at the forefront of this culinary evolution. He aims to eliminate the strong "cod liver oil" taste often associated with whale meat, revealing its natural sweetness, which he likens to that of sweet game meat. While many Norwegians have memories of eating whale meat, often prepared with cream sauce or served in the military, Johnsæter's approach is more refined.

For us, much is about getting rid of the taste of cod liver oil. Then the sweetness of the whale comes forward, and it tastes fantastic. It resembles sweet game meat.

— Tord JohnsæterDescribing his approach to preparing whale meat at Stock restaurant.

Stock serves minke whale raw, but cured and salted, a departure from the traditionally well-cooked Norwegian preparation. Johnsæter also moves the meat away from a maritime context, incorporating flavors like fir shoot and chili, pickled cucumber, marinated apple, and smoked sour cream. For 255 kroner, diners can experience grilled minke whale prepared in this innovative style. Johnsæter notes that while some restaurants feature whale meat occasionally, it's not common on menus. He encounters little ethical criticism for serving it, with the most heated discussions occurring internally over whether whale should be prepared on a fish or meat cutting board.

It is a hot discussion. I mean meat.

— Tord JohnsæterReferring to the internal debate in his kitchen about whether whale meat should be treated as fish or meat.
DistantNews Editorial

Originally published by Aftenposten in Norwegian. Translated, summarized, and contextualized by our editorial team with added local perspective. Read our editorial standards.

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