Chef Dante Liporace challenges culinary trends with innovative 'Sequence of the Cow' menu

La Nación features chef Dante Liporace, a figure known for his provocative culinary style and past role in the Casa Rosada during Mauricio Macri's presidency. Liporace is bringing back his acclaimed "Sequence of the Cow" tasting menu at his restaurant Mercado de Liniers, a move he describes as a return to conceptual fine dining. He contrasts this with what he perceives as a widespread "intellectual laziness" in the current restaurant scene, where many establishments, particularly the popular "neobodegones," offer predictable and uninspired menus.

“

With the neobodegón trend, the menus are all very similar. For me, it's intellectual laziness.

Liporace's "Sequence of the Cow" is not merely a nostalgic revival; it's an evolution. He explains that while the original menu was innovative for its time, the new iteration pushes boundaries further by incorporating ingredients like cow tendons, heart, and even tripe (mondongo). This deliberate inclusion of less common cuts and offal is a direct challenge to diners accustomed to more conventional fare. Liporace sees this as essential for the survival and relevance of fine dining, arguing that it's far from being obsolete, contrary to popular belief.

“

Fine dining is not dead.

The chef expresses particular delight that his challenging menu resonates with younger diners, many under 30, who may not have experienced his earlier work at Tarquino. This demographic, he notes, is proving that there is still a strong appetite for sophisticated, boundary-pushing cuisine. Liporace's approach, which he likens to the enduring appeal of performers like Pimpinela who stick to their successful formulas, suggests a belief that true culinary artistry, even when unconventional, will always find an audience. His critique of the "neobodegón" trend highlights a broader debate about authenticity, innovation, and the future of dining in Argentina.

“

I copied the concept from Ferran Adrià... and I said, why not do a sequence of the cow? It was also the one that gave me the most joy, because it led to the first outstanding review I received in The New York Times. And besides, every time I do it, it works.