Climber Criticizes Leader of Expedition Killed in Pakistan Avalanche

A climbing expedition of ten people perished in an avalanche on Broad Peak in Pakistan, a mountain rising to about 8,000 meters. The group was led by Nirmal Purja, a celebrated Nepali-British climber known for setting numerous records.

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I would never have gone there to hang around.

Experienced Finnish climber Veikka Gustafsson questioned the expedition's decision to attempt the summit, stating that the weather conditions in the Pakistani mountains were widely known to be unsafe. Gustafsson, who has climbed Broad Peak twice himself, does not recommend it as a first 8,000-meter peak due to its steep route, which has become riskier with warming temperatures leading to more falling rocks.

This climbing season, however, presented a different challenge: heavy snowfall significantly increased avalanche risk. Gustafsson noted that another Finnish climber, Anni Penttilä, had described the season as "terrible" and decided to return home, a decision Gustafsson supported as the only correct one. Purja, meanwhile, was leading a commercial expedition in these hazardous conditions, even as most other climbers had departed.

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Why did this one expedition go there?

Purja, a former elite soldier in the British Army, gained fame for climbing all 14 of the world's highest peaks in six months in 2019. However, his reputation has also been marred by allegations. In 2024, Lotta Hintsa and doctor April Leonardo accused Purja of sexual harassment, which he denied. Gustafsson also cast doubt on Purja's guiding skills, suggesting that his past achievements as a climber do not automatically translate to being a good mountain guide.

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Just before leaving for Pakistan, I calculated the 8,000-meter peaks. Then I realized if I tick off Broad Peak while I'm here, only one remains, 'Cho Oyu'. Then I will become the first person in history to have climbed all 14 eight-kilometer peaks twice. Without supplemental oxygen.