Fes: Where Fruits Once Named the Streets

In the ancient Moroccan city of Fes, the landscape itself once served as a map. Before the advent of modern street numbering, residents navigated by distinctive natural features, with fruit-bearing trees and lush gardens acting as living landmarks. This deep connection to nature is woven into the city's fabric, evident in its very nomenclature.

Streets and alleys within Fes are adorned with names that evoke the fruits once abundant there. "Bab Zitoun" (Olive Gate) in eastern Fes points to the historical olive groves, while "Bab Khoukha" (Peach Gate) in the eastern quarter is named after fragrant peach orchards. Inside the medina, "Darb Mechmacha" (Apricot Lane) recalls a venerable apricot tree, and "Darb Touta" (Mulberry Lane) hints at the silkworm industry fed by mulberry leaves. "Zqaq Rman" (Pomegranate Alley) conjures images of walls draped with jewel-like pomegranates, and "Darb Louza" (Almond Lane) remembers almond trees that dotted the alleyways. Even the neighborhood of "Agzam Barqua" in the upper quarter, where "Agzam" means "orchard" in Amazigh, preserves the memory of a plum orchard.

This botanical heritage was not confined to street names; it permeated the city's economic life. The "Rahba Zbib" (Raisin Market) stands as a testament to a specialized trade in dried goods like raisins, figs, and nuts, sourced from the orchards surrounding Fes. Nearby, "Suiqa Karma" (Vine Market) was a smaller trading post for fresh and dried figs from adjacent gardens. These markets formed a vital part of Fes's food culture, influencing traditional dishes like Mrouzia and couscous.

The unique relationship between Fes, its fruits, and its waters was not lost on foreign observers. Spanish traveler Domingo Badía y Leblich, who visited Fes in the early 19th century disguised as "Ali Bey al-Abbasi," marveled at the city's abundant gardens and exceptional fruit quality. He noted in his writings the extensive gardens surrounding the city, producing high-quality fruits like figs, pomegranates, peaches, grapes, melons, and olives, attributing this bounty to the excellent water and fertile soil. His observations underscore the historical significance of Fes's natural resources and their integration into the city's identity and economy.