Fez tanners: The harsh reality behind Morocco's iconic tourist postcard

The historic tanneries of Fez, Morocco, present a striking medieval scene for tourists, with artisans working in stone vats using age-old methods. However, this iconic image masks a reality of grueling, unhealthy, and low-paying labor for the workers.

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We continue to work exactly the same way as we have always worked, as the Romans did. It is an inherited craft that passes from generation to generation.

A recent investigation by Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdellah University in Fez surveyed 220 tanners, revealing that 86% suffer from at least one illness linked to their work. Alarmingly, 96% of these workers do not use protective equipment such as gloves, masks, or goggles, exposing them directly to hazardous chemicals like lime and ammonia from pigeon droppings.

Ahmed, who has worked at the Sidi Musa tannery for 30 years, explains that the process remains unchanged from Roman times, passed down through generations. He offers visitors mint leaves to mask the strong odors, a common practice. Despite the harsh conditions, he claims there are "no illnesses" at Sidi Musa and that they use gloves, though his colleagues working without protection seem to contradict this.

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The only thing that can be a bit difficult is the lime, which can remove hair from the skin, but we use gloves.

The tanning process involves softening hides in lime, removing hair, washing, and then treating them with pigeon dung for ammonia. Further steps include bleaching, tanning, and dyeing using natural or chemical agents. The workday is dictated by the completion of each hide, often extending to 12 hours, with monthly wages around 4,000 dirhams (approximately 400 euros), slightly above the minimum wage.

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The workday ends when a hide is finished. Sometimes eight hours, sometimes twelve.