Food safety crackdown snares Mumbai’s famed restaurants

Mumbai's vibrant food scene is under intense scrutiny as food safety inspectors conduct the toughest crackdown in years on restaurants across the megacity. Famed eateries, including those known for ice cream sandwiches and slow-cooked stews, have been shut down for serious hygiene breaches, such as the presence of rats, flies, and improperly stored meat.

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If they are abiding by the law... they have nothing to fear. And those who do not, they have no place to hide.

The campaign is spearheaded by Tukaram Mundhe, the new head of Maharashtra's food safety regulator, who has gained a significant following on Instagram for his no-nonsense approach. Mundhe expressed surprise at the widespread lack of basic food safety knowledge among owners, from receiving raw materials to maintaining proper flooring. In July, his office inspected almost 900 businesses and temporarily suspended over 100 licenses, targeting establishments from top restaurants to canteens at elite institutions.

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Every department must have an officer like Mundhe. Corruption and adulteration can be contained only through the strict actions of such officers.

While many Mumbai residents, fiercely protective of their food culture, have welcomed the move, seeing it as a necessary step against corruption and adulteration, the industry is pushing back. Hotel lobby groups have criticized the swift license suspensions as heavy-handed, appealing to Prime Minister Narendra Modi. The judiciary has also weighed in, with Mumbai's high court reportedly advising regulators to moderate their approach. Meanwhile, anxiety is spreading among street food vendors who fear they might be the next to face closures, questioning where they will go if their livelihoods are impacted.

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The sudden suspension or termination of licences without prior notice or opportunity for corrective action is a matter of grave concern.