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From 1956: The Traditional Neighborhood Cantina That Captivated Maradona
🇦🇷 Argentina /Culture & Society

From 1956: The Traditional Neighborhood Cantina That Captivated Maradona

From La Nación · () Spanish

Translated from Spanish, summarized and contextualized by DistantNews.

At a glance

In-depth Sources not specified Context piece
  • Chichilo, a traditional Italian cantina in Buenos Aires' Paternal neighborhood, has been a neighborhood staple since its founding in 1956.
  • The restaurant, known for its home-style Calabrian cuisine, was a favorite of football legend Diego Maradona, who frequented it while playing for Argentinos Juniors.
  • Maradona's connection to Chichilo was so strong that he even requested frozen frogs, a specialty of the house, be sent to him while playing in Naples, and later asked for the recipe.

Nestled in the Paternal neighborhood of Buenos Aires, Chichilo stands as a testament to traditional Italian cantina culture, serving its community since 1956. Cacho Russo, the current owner, embodies the dedication required to run such an establishment, describing a daily routine that involves early mornings receiving suppliers, sourcing meat, cooking until late, and attending to patrons until the last customer departs.

The cantina, located at Camarones 1901, was founded by Calabrian immigrants Francesco and Maria Rosa Russo. Cacho's mother, Ester, continued to cook there until she was 83. The walls of Chichilo are adorned with football memorabilia, particularly shirts and photos of Diego Maradona, who considered the restaurant his second home. Maradona discovered Chichilo due to its proximity to the Argentinos Juniors stadium and celebrated his birthdays there.

Not only did we send them, but shortly after, he called us to ask for the recipe for frogs Provençal, because they didn't know how to make them in Naples.

— Cacho RussoCacho Russo recounts Diego Maradona's request for Chichilo's signature frog dish recipe while playing in Italy.

Maradona's affection for Chichilo extended even to his time playing for Napoli in Italy. He famously requested that the cantina send him frozen frogs, a specialty prepared by Nona Ester. "Not only did we send them, but shortly after, he called us to ask for the recipe for frogs Provençal, because they didn't know how to make them in Naples," Cacho recalls. This anecdote highlights the deep personal connection Maradona felt with the restaurant and its cuisine.

The Russo family's culinary legacy began when Francesco and Maria Rosa arrived from Calabria in 1920. After various jobs, they opened a small establishment in San Cristóbal, aiming to preserve Calabrian gastronomy. Its success led to expansion, eventually bringing them to their current location in Paternal. The cantina was named Chichilo, a childhood nickname for Francesco. Later, Francesco's son, also named Francesco, married Esterina Figliomeni, and together they managed the cantina. After Francesco's passing, Ester took the helm, with a young Cacho joining her at 18. Cacho remembers his mother as the heart of Chichilo for decades, maintaining the restaurant's philosophy of abundant, home-style dishes and personalized service, a tradition he continues today.

My mom was the soul of the cantina and had an incredible relationship with Maradona, she said he was her protégé.

— Cacho RussoCacho Russo reflects on his mother Ester's close bond with Diego Maradona.
DistantNews Editorial

Originally published by La Nación in Spanish. Translated, summarized, and contextualized by our editorial team with added local perspective. Read our editorial standards.

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