The Restaurant That Revolutionized Palermo With Its Curries When Buenos Aires Didn't Eat Spicy

In 1999, Palermo Hollywood was a quiet residential area in Buenos Aires, dotted with modest grills and auto repair shops. Few contemporary restaurants hinted at the dramatic culinary transformation that would soon sweep the neighborhood. Sudestada emerged as a key player in this shift, becoming the first Argentine restaurant dedicated to the diverse cuisines of Southeast Asia, blending influences from Vietnam, Thailand, Malaysia, and Indonesia.

Leonardo Azulay, a co-founder and chef, recalls the restaurant's ambitious start. "We opened with all our savings, using a home fryer, a blender that belonged to my partner's mother, and a very basic rice cooker. It immediately became a success; we even had lines stretching halfway down the block," he said. Today, Sudestada remains on its original corner, maintaining its core concept and spirit. Azulay continues to manage the daily operations, while partners Estanislao Carenzo and Pablo Giudice split their time between Spain and Buenos Aires. Together, they also own the pizzeria Picsa.

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We opened with all our savings, using a home fryer, a blender that belonged to my partner's mother, and a very basic rice cooker. It immediately became a success; we even had lines stretching halfway down the block.

When asked why they chose Southeast Asian cuisine for a city where spicy food, cilantro, and coconut milk were largely unknown, Azulay admitted it wasn't a meticulously planned decision. "I'd like to say we thought about it a lot, but the truth is, we didn't. Many of the things we did were because we were a bit unaware, without knowing if something would work or not," he explained. He noted that during that era, traveling chefs, including themselves, often sought out Asian cuisine wherever they went, recognizing its deliciousness and believing Buenos Aires needed such an offering. While other Asian restaurants existed, they were few and far between.

Sudestada brought a fresh perspective to Buenos Aires' dining landscape. Unlike the ostentatious, high-investment establishments in areas like Puerto Madero and Cañitas, Sudestada focused on the food itself. Their initial investment was a modest $44,000, a sum unimaginable today, representing all their savings. A key innovation was employing professional Asian chefs, often recommended through embassies for their home-style cooking expertise. This commitment to authenticity set them apart and contributed to their lasting impact on the city's culinary evolution.

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I'd like to say we thought about it a lot, but the truth is, we didn't. Many of the things we did were because we were a bit unaware, without knowing if something would work or not.