Hidden war, underrated food, Chinese influence: I explored Laos and found it at the crossroads

Laos, a nation often overlooked for quick getaways in the region, presents a unique travel experience, as explored by a writer journeying from Vientiane to Luang Prabang along the Mekong River. The trip, undertaken with aging parents and young children, prioritized local culture and sightseeing over beach resorts, offering a slower pace of life compared to bustling neighbors like Vietnam and Thailand.

Navigating daily life involved unexpected encounters, such as food stalls doubling as informal money exchange points. Due to the Lao kip's limited exchangeability outside the country, travelers often rely on foreign currency like the Thai baht. Even with language barriers, transactions were managed through worn calculators, highlighting the resourcefulness of local vendors.

The writer's interest in Laos was also sparked by connections made in Paris with the Lao diaspora, where they first experienced Lao cuisine like 'mok pa.' While expecting remnants of French colonialism, the writer found that only subtle traces remained, such as baguette sandwiches and colonial-era architecture, alongside French signage at some institutions.

A striking observation was the visible Chinese influence, evident in prevalent signage, tour groups, and the acceptance of the renminbi as currency. This reflects China's position as Laos' largest trading partner and investor. The presence of both national flags and the red hammer-and-sickle flags of the Lao People's Revolutionary Party at landmarks like Patuxai served as a reminder of Laos' communist political system, positioning the country at a complex intersection of tradition, history, and burgeoning international relations.

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How much is this in renminbi? You tell me.