Italian police raid luxury fashion houses again, suspecting subcontractor exploitation

Italian police conducted searches at the headquarters of nine prominent luxury fashion houses on Thursday, as authorities investigate subcontractors for alleged worker exploitation and labor law violations. The operation, reported by Reuters, seeks documents related to supply chain oversight from brands including Brunello Cucinelli, Moncler, Chanel, Bulgari, Jacob Cohen Company, Etro, Stefano Ricci, Goyard Italy, and Owenscorp Italian.

While none of the nine targeted companies are themselves under investigation, the raids are part of a broader crackdown on labor abuses within Italy's high-fashion industry. Police and prosecutors are demanding documentation concerning the management of their supply chains. This action follows a similar large-scale operation in December 2025, which saw police visit the premises of 13 luxury brands, including Gucci, Prada, and Dolce & Gabbana.

Over the course of a prolonged investigation, authorities have raided numerous sweatshops, many of which are owned by migrants, on the outskirts of Milan. These workshops have been accused of severely violating labor conditions. Reports indicate negligence in worker safety, unreasonable working hours, and extremely low wages, with some workers reportedly earning only a few euros per day. The complex subcontracting chains are typical for luxury brands' production.

Specifically, workshops supplying Italian-based luxury brands have been accused of exploiting undocumented Chinese workers. On Thursday, police also visited two Chinese-owned sweatshops that produce shopping bags and pouches for luxury brands. The investigations aim to address systemic issues of labor exploitation that persist despite the high-end image of the fashion industry.