Michelin Guide Faces Questions Over Whether It Has Enough Inspectors

The Michelin Guide is expanding faster than the people responsible for judging its restaurants, according to concerns raised by Britain’s gastronomy industry and examined by The Guardian.

The guide, founded in 1900 as a list of recommended restaurants for motorists travelling through France, introduced its now-famous star system three decades later. Today, its red guide ranks among the world’s most prestigious restaurant listings. Its distinctions rely on anonymous visits by Michelin inspectors, who book tables under changed names and assess dishes for texture, taste, ingredient quality, culinary technique and how well the food reflects the chef’s personality.

The number of restaurants included in the guide has grown steadily. Over the past five years, almost 4,000 establishments have joined editions around the world, including restaurants receiving a standard listing, one or more stars, or a Bib Gourmand distinction. Michelin says its inspectors visit about 20,000 establishments globally each year.

Poland has also seen the guide’s presence grow. Several dozen Polish restaurants joined the guide in the spring, bringing the number carrying its red plaques to nearly 200. Yet Michelin treats the number of inspectors as a closely guarded secret. The publisher does not disclose how many inspectors visit any particular country each year or how often they assess restaurants seeking inclusion.

The available information indicates that inspectors come from about 30 countries and each visits 250 to 300 restaurants over the course of a year. People working in Britain’s restaurant sector, including chefs, critics and guide users, told The Guardian that this may not be enough. They question whether inspectors can keep pace with the growing number of restaurants and still provide consistently reliable assessments.