Moldova beyond the crowds: Jewish heritage, wine and Transnistria

Moldova presents a compelling destination for travelers eager to explore places before they become overrun with tourists. This Eastern European nation offers a unique blend of monastic traditions, a significant Jewish historical legacy, renowned wine culture, and a lively modern café scene, often experienced within the same day. Venturing beyond the capital, Chisinau, reveals a country where the atmosphere, personal encounters, and enduring stories are the true hallmarks of a journey.

A striking starting point is the expansive Jewish cemetery on the outskirts of Chisinau, which functions as an open-air museum. Here, ornate headstones stand alongside simpler family graves, including those of victims from the 1903 Kishinev pogrom and a mysterious airman's grave. Within the cemetery grounds lies a crumbling prayer hall, slated for restoration with U.S. Embassy aid, and a genizah containing four Torah scrolls desecrated during the pogrom, as well as the grave of Rabbi Yehuda Leib Tsirelson, a prominent figure executed by the Nazis in 1941.

Jewish heritage is deeply embedded throughout Moldova. Prior to the Holocaust, the country was home to large and thriving Jewish communities, and remnants of this past are visible in synagogues, cemeteries, memorials, and family narratives. Today, Jewish life in Chisinau is modest but growing, with the local Chabad community offering a unique perspective. Conversations over Shabbat dinner naturally weave together local traditions, family histories, and aspirations for Moldova's future, leaving visitors with a warm impression.

Outside the capital, the landscape transforms around Orhei, a site of immense historical and spiritual importance. The journey itself, winding through rolling hills and limestone cliffs, is part of the experience. Nearby, the Epoca di Piatra offers a unique cave restaurant complex serving traditional Moldovan cuisine in atmospheric stone chambers. The Belvedere Point provides a defining panorama of fields, cliffs, and the Raut River, creating a sense of distance from the rush of modern Europe. The Old Orhei Monastery, partially carved into rock, offers a memorable ascent amidst grazing goats, leading to breathtaking scenery.