On the Algarve: Beach Holidays with Fish Pallets, Rock Spires and Fine Ceramics

Few coastlines are as varied as the Algarve, where stretches of sand alternate with dramatic rock formations. Lagos ranks among the region's best-known destinations, drawing visitors to boat trips around Ponta da Piedade, with its cliffs, stone windows and grottoes seen from the water.

There is plenty of holiday activity here, but Lagos does not have the same atmosphere as British-dominated party resorts such as Albufeira. A substantial wall surrounds the attractive old town. Its history also has a darker side: the first slave market in Europe took place at the old customs house in 1444.

Former fishing villages have become holiday destinations, reshaped by modern tourism architecture. Portuguese building rules keep construction lower than across the border in Spain, so the Algarve generally avoids the high-rise and fortress-hotel model. Even in densely built areas, visitors often find green spaces, golf courses and oasis-like resorts, including Vila Vita Parc in Porches.

The coast's bizarre beauty is also a sign of its fragility. Porous limestone and sandstone crumble at the edge, and rockfalls can occur as seawater, erosion and winter storms wear away the cliffs. Marked, connected trails run along the tops, keeping a respectful distance and adding protection at vulnerable points.

Food and design offer another view of the region. Bacalhau, Portugal's national fish, is sold dried, salted and cut into slabs, then soaked for one or two days before cooking. In Burgau, far to the west, beach restaurants serve straightforward food, often centered on fish. The Costa Vicentina toward Odeceixe attracts walkers and surfers seeking a quieter stretch. Portuguese tiles, especially painted and glazed azulejos, decorate buildings with elaborate scenes, while patterned Calçada Portuguesa paving covers the ground. The cataplana, a hinged copper pot with a shell-like shape and tightly fitting lid, is another Portuguese all-purpose kitchen staple.