Rome's former slaughterhouse becomes a hub for alternative culture

Rome's Testaccio neighborhood pulses with a unique blend of ancient history and burgeoning alternative culture, centered around the imposing Mattatoio, a former slaughterhouse.

Once the site where cattle were herded and slaughtered until 1975, the Mattatoio's industrial architecture now frames a lively courtyard. Today, this space buzzes with markets, concerts, debates, and culinary events, establishing it as a significant center for alternative culture. The area's history is deeply etched in its very name, Testaccio, derived from 'testae', the shards of Roman pottery that once transported goods like olive oil and wine, forming the hill upon which the neighborhood was built.

While Rome is globally renowned for its ancient wonders like the Colosseum and Roman Forum, Testaccio offers a different historical narrative. Nearby, the Pyramid of Cestius, a tomb for a Roman politician, stands as a testament to Roman fascination with Egypt. Adjacent to it lies the Non-Catholic Cemetery, the final resting place for English Romantic poets John Keats and Percy Bysshe Shelley, and Goethe's son. Though primarily for non-Catholics and non-Italians, exceptions are made for those who have significantly contributed to culture and politics, including Italian figures like writer Andrea Camilleri and former president Giorgio Napolitano.

The Mattatoio itself is envisioned by the municipality as a comprehensive art center, though its full realization is ongoing. Currently, it serves as a base for various independent associations and groups, including a music school that teaches "every conceivable instrument to around 90" students. This evolving space represents a dynamic shift from its grim past to a future as a creative nucleus within the historic Testaccio district.