Sardinia's 'Threads of God' pasta tradition fights for survival

In the mountains of northern Sardinia, a centuries-old tradition of pasta making is being kept alive by Paola Abraini, one of the few remaining custodians of su filindeu, or "threads of God." This exceptionally rare pasta, considered the rarest in Italy, involves a meticulous hand-stretching process where a single ball of dough is transformed into 256 gossamer strands, arranged in a triangular pattern to symbolize the Holy Trinity.

Abraini learned the intricate craft from her mother-in-law at age 16, a tradition historically passed down through a single line of matriarchs in Nuoro. Unlike most Italian pasta, su filindeu requires a unique method of stretching, where each pass of the dough halves its width and doubles the number of strands, a process repeated eight times to achieve the required 256 threads. The technique demands mastery of variables like water hardness and the precise moment to add salt, which tightens the gluten for elasticity.

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To lose this tradition would be like losing a piece of our identity.

Despite Abraini's tireless efforts to teach the craft, younger generations have been reluctant to take up the practice due to its demanding nature. Even large pasta manufacturers like Barilla have been unable to replicate the technique. Su filindeu's existence is deeply tied to its origins in northern Sardinia, a region characterized by isolation, hearty food, and strong beliefs, reflecting the island's unique history and culture.

Abraini's dedication has helped bring su filindeu back from the brink of extinction, preserving a vital piece of Sardinian identity. The pasta's delicate nature is further enhanced by the drying process, where sun exposure gives it a light, golden hue, embodying the essence of its Mediterranean environment.

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When it is dried in the sun it becomes light and golden.