Slimy beans: Japanese natto disgusts and delights the world

Sticky, translucent strings dangle from Wesley Smith’s chopsticks as the American tourist relishes his natto, the loved-and-hated Japanese fermented soybean superfood going global one slimy mouthful at a time. Japan’s exports of the highly nutritious gooey beans tripled from 2017 to 5,248 tonnes in 2025, with China and the United States topping the list of destinations.

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I thought it was a little funky at first.

The delicacy infused with beneficial bacteria remains a traditional Japanese breakfast staple, but its pungent aroma, viscous texture, and yeasty taste divide even its homeland. "I thought it was a little funky at first," Smith said during his recent lunch at Sendaiya, a Tokyo restaurant that serves all-you-can-eat natto menus – an idea of hell for some people, heaven for others. Over the years, the mushy yellow-brown legumes "became an acquired taste like a strong cheese can, because you know how cheese can smell like dirty socks," the 47-year-old Arizonan said.

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became an acquired taste like a strong cheese can, because you know how cheese can smell like dirty socks.

Recent years have seen natto join a series of fermented foods, from kimchi to kombucha, that have surged in popularity worldwide. Americans, in particular, are seeking better digestive health following the Covid-19 pandemic. Regular consumption of the high-fibre, protein-packed snack is often linked to stronger immune systems, improved digestion, and greater bone density. In China, too, the "trend toward health-consciousness especially among the middle and upper-income classes" is igniting interest in Japanese foods, according to a Japan External Trade Organisation report.

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trend toward health-consciousness especially among the middle and upper-income classes

At Japanese restaurant Suehiro in Los Angeles, owner Kenji Suzuki has noticed more non-Japanese clients taking the plunge. "When social media started talking about natto and that it’s a superfood, I think then more and more people wanted to see what it is, wanted to taste it – ‘is it as bad as people say it is?,’" Suzuki told AFP. "Some people maybe don’t like it, but other people, you know, they love it," the second-generation owner said. While Smith’s wife Maya Bourdeau likened natto to "natural wine" with "that slightly different taste," Smith himself doubts it will ever go mainstream in the U.S. due to its slimy texture, noting, "I can’t think of anything in American cooking that’s common with that slimy texture." However, Daisuke Tsujimoto, who traveled hundreds of kilometers from Osaka to Tokyo to dine at Sendaiya, believes "It really is a food culture Japan can be proud of," adding, "I truly hope people around the world will continue to eat it."

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When social media started talking about natto and that it’s a superfood, I think then more and more people wanted to see what it is, wanted to taste it – ‘is it as bad as people say it is?,’