The beach in Trieste: Where women can be among themselves

Trieste, Italy, may not boast the most picturesque beaches in the country, but its "El Pedocin" (Bagno Marino La Lanterna) offers a distinct and enduring appeal. For over 120 years, this city-run establishment has maintained a unique tradition: the strict segregation of men and women in separate bathing areas, divided by a three-meter high stone wall designed to prevent any visual contact.

Upon entering, visitors are directed to either the "Uomini" (men's) or "Donne" (women's) section. The women's area, where the author spent time, is far from conventionally beautiful. It features spartan changing rooms, a crumbling three-story building, ample concrete, and a notable absence of trees or greenery. Two shaded pavilions offer minimal respite from the sun. The beach itself, with its small pebbles, is bordered by a pier that obstructs the view of the open sea, creating an impression more akin to a large stone basin than a coastal expanse.

Despite its unrefined aesthetics, "El Pedocin" is a beloved local institution, described as having a special "cult" flair. On a warm June afternoon, the women's section was already bustling with activity. Women of all ages lounged under the intense Italian sun, their demeanor relaxed and uninhibited. The beach is filled with a diverse array of female bodies – large, small, slender, aged, smooth, scarred – all coexisting with a palpable sense of ease. Many women, embracing the local custom, chose to go topless, while children up to the age of fourteen are permitted to access either section depending on their accompanying guardian.

The atmosphere is one of shared experience and comfort. Laughter and conversation fill the air as women engage in various activities, from swimming and sunbathing to simply resting. The lack of conventional beauty is overshadowed by the beach's unique social function, providing a space where women can feel at ease and unselfconscious, a cherished tradition in the heart of Trieste.